The old-world charm of Austria

In Austria, food signifies much more than mere sustenance. In this corner of the world, meals are meant to be savored and celebrated. The country’s many taverns, restaurants and cafés are known for fostering a sense of gemütlichkeit—the feeling of well-being that comes with good food and good company.

You are most likely to experience gemütlichkeit at a typical Heuriger wine tavern. The Heuriger has been a part of Austrian culture since 1784, when Emperor Joseph II decreed that anyone who produced their own wine could legally serve and sell it. Thus, local taverns and residents began selling the year’s new batch of wine from their establishments or houses. The traditional bundle of twigs positioned over the entrance is still used today to signal that the wine made from that year’s grape harvest is ready for public consumption. Musicians playing traditional Austrian songs are often found at Heurigen, adding to the overall gemütlichkeit atmosphere. Common menu items found at a Heuriger include brettljause—a plate of cheese, breads, spreads and sausages.

Sausages also take center stage at the Wiener Würstelstand, a traditional street food stand in Austria akin to fast food. This is the place to go for quick and inexpensive snacks such as bosna, a bratwurst sausage with onions and a blend of mustard or ketchup and curry powder; sacher würstel, sausage with mustard and horseradish, served on a kaiser roll; and käsekrainer, a sausage filled with cheese.

Austria’s most famous dish is wiener schnitzel, a traditional favorite that can be traced back to the 18th century. Traditionally prepared with veal, this Viennese cutlet is hammered thin, then dipped in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and fried in oil. It is often served with boiled, buttered potatoes and garnished with parsley and a lemon wedge.

A visit to a Viennese coffeehouse is more than just a quick caffeine fix—it is a complete sensory experience. For more than 300 years, people in Vienna have flocked to the city’s elegant cafés and restaurants, which feature large, well-appointed rooms and, often, string quartets. These venerable institutions have long served as vital hubs of communication considered essential to society’s cultural well-being. They are the perfect place to enjoy a cup of coffee and a pastry or slice of cake, such as the rich chocolate Sachertorte.

The first Viennese coffeehouse opened in 1683, ushering in an era of new traditions in this classical city. Each cup of coffee was served with a glass of cold water, and the cafés featured amenities like billiard tables. Soon, no coffeehouse would be considered complete without red velvet seating and magnificent chandeliers.

Today, Vienna’s Café Landtmann, Café Sperl, Café Hawelka and Café Bräunerhof are frequented by locals and visitors alike. Now, as then, coffee is served in a variety of ways. Here are just a few:

• Schwarzer—Strong black coffee, equivalent to an espresso. For a double shot, ask for a grosser Schwarzer.
• Brauner—Coffee with a dash of milk or cream
• Melange—Frothy, with equal amounts of milk and coffee
• Kaffee Crème—Coffee with a small jug of milk on the side
• Kapuziner—Cappuccino
• Fiaker—Espresso with sugar and cherry brandy, topped with whipped cream and a cherry

No matter which option you choose, your coffee is sure to be delivered in the traditional manner—on a silver tray accompanied by a glass of cold water.

Austria’s impressive Linz Castle, located on the Danube River, dates to approximately 799 during the reign of Charlemagne. However, the building is inextricably tied to Emperor Friedrich III, who rebuilt the castle during his reign as a residential palace. While Friedrich lived in the castle, he elevated the city’s stature in Austria, making Linz the center of the Hapsburg Empire.

Guests to the castle will see a prominent gate bearing the text “A.E.I.O.U.”—an acronym for a Latin phrase meaning that Austria was “the greatest power on Earth.” Today, visitors are not seeing the castle as Friedrich did. While pieces of the original facade remain, guests are actually touring a redesigned expansion undertaken by Rudolf II in the 17th century.

The castle also served as a military hospital during the conquests of Napoleon, a prison and military barracks. Thanks to a decade-long restoration beginning in 1953, the grounds now house the Upper Austrian provincial museum, which displays relics and information about the region’s history. Museum holdings include musical instruments, paintings and historic weapons. Another highlight is a sprawling model of the city of Linz.