Embark on a journey to Oberammergau

The true cornerstone of German daily ritual can be found in a coffee cup. A classic Bavarian indulgence is the tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen, or coffee and cake. Far more than just an afternoon break, it is a cherished cultural institution, dedicated to the pleasures of good company and food. On weekends, particularly Sunday afternoons, it is common for Germans to gather in their own homes for Kaffee und Kuchen or to meet at a Konditorei, a local bakery-café.

Germany's enduring love affair with coffee began during the late 17th century, when the nation’s first coffeehouses opened. Initially, this dark, aromatic beverage was a symbol of status, because it was an expensive import reserved for the aristocratic and affluent circles who gathered in these exclusive new establishments.

With the expansion of global trade and new industrial roasting techniques, coffee became a cultural staple, evolving into a formal third meal of the day. Serving it with a slice of comforting cake became a beloved tradition that provided welcome sustenance and helped people reclaim a few moments of repose during a long workday.

Now, the exclusive Kaffeeklatsch—or “coffee gossip”—of high society has become a universal ritual, embraced today by all walks of life in settings from classic cafés to modern espresso bars.

As you wander through Oberammergau, its streets transform into a vibrant, open-air art gallery. Lüftlmalerei, the defining visual characteristic of this small mountain town, is a form of elaborate mural art unique to the villages of the Bavarian Alps. The name, meaning “air painting,” is thought to have originated from one of the most famous early practitioners, whose home was known as Zum Lüftl.

The techniques used to create these masterpieces are the same as those in fresco painting, where pigments are applied to fresh, wet lime plaster. As the plaster dries, a chemical reaction bonds the color to the surface, making the artwork incredibly durable against the harsh Alpine weather.

The subjects of these murals are as captivating as the technique itself. You will find building exteriors adorned with scenes from the Bible, images of patron saints and vivid re-tellings of fairy tales from the Brothers Grimm. These frescoes also rely heavily on trompe-l'œil, an optical illusion where two-dimensional images appear to have three-dimensional depth. Thanks to Lüftlmalerei, plain facades take on the visual character of much grander, architecturally significant buildings.

The world-renowned Oberammergau Passion Play, or Passionsspiele, is performed every 10 years. It began not as a theatrical production but as a desperate plea to God. During the early 17th century, the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648) and the bubonic plague devastated Central Europe. For a time, the remote village of Oberammergau had been spared from the ravages of disease due to its strict quarantine. However, legend holds that in 1633, a homesick villager, hoping to reunite with his family, slipped past the guards and unknowingly brought the plague with him.

As death swept through the community, the desperate villagers gathered and made a solemn vow: if God would spare them from the plague, they would perform a play depicting the life and suffering of Christ every ten years. After making this promise, the village’s death rate is said to have miraculously ceased.

True to their word, the survivors staged the first performance of the Passionsspiele in 1634. For nearly 400 years, their descendants have faithfully kept this promise, turning a moment of profound crisis into an enduring legacy of faith and art.