Experience the treasures of the Mekong River

Although Cambodian—or Khmer—cuisine is often thought to be indistinguishable from that of its neighbors, Thailand and Vietnam, it differs in several important ways. For one, the spice level is comparatively mild. A bowl of small chilies is commonly served alongside meals, allowing the diner to add spice to the food at their discretion. In place of the heat, many Cambodian dishes boast distinct pickled or tangy flavors. This is often achieved through the use of kapi, or fermented shrimp paste, in addition to the ubiquitous fermented fish paste known as prahok. The presence of large amounts of garlic is another hallmark of this singular cuisine, as is a wide variety of locally grown vegetables.

While the Vietnamese adore their pho soup and the Thais their khao tom (boiled rice porridge served with egg and/or meat), Cambodians prefer to start their morning with a steaming bowl of kuy teav, or meat and noodle soup. Nom banh chok (rice noodles smothered in a fish-based green curry sauce) or a simple breakfast of bai sach chrouk (grilled pork and rice) are also popular choices.

When it comes to unusual snacks, fried ants and crickets are found throughout Southeast Asia, but Cambodians also have a particular taste for tarantulas. Eaten in earnest during the famine-stricken days of the Khmer Rouge regime, the arachnid’s crab-like flavor quickly caught on, and today they are considered a delicacy. These crunchy treats are usually stir-fried in a wok and are said to be the perfect accompaniment to a cold glass of beer.

From insects to indigenous herbs, Cambodia boasts a culture and a cuisine all its own. Among the many spices grown in this resilient country, the revered Kampot pepper reigns supreme. Floral and slightly sweet with a long, lingering aftertaste, this exquisite variety has been cultivated in Cambodia for centuries, becoming an important export during the country’s time under French colonial rule. Though the industry was forced into a period of serious decline due to the Khmer Rouge regime’s autocratic policies, it has since begun the slow process of rebuilding. In addition to appearing on the menus of some of the world’s top restaurants, Kampot pepper can now be found locally in dishes including loc lac (stir-fried beef strips set atop a green salad served with a lime-and-pepper dipping sauce) and sautéed crab and pepper.

The tradition of selling products from boat to boat goes back more than 100 years, and the Mekong Delta is home to hundreds of floating markets. With so many interesting goods for sale in these markets, you can look, smell, taste and buy your way through a veritable cornucopia.

Trading begins before dawn. By sunrise, the waterways are decorated with an army of brightly painted sampans (small, flat-bottomed wooden boats) jockeying for position as everything from pineapples, herbs and citrus to turtles, snakes and potbellied pigs quickly change hands.

Wholesalers moor here, each specializing in one or a few types of fruit or vegetables. Bigger boats snap everything up by the bushel and resell it in the big cities. Vendors of smaller items hoist samples on a bamboo pole so their goods are visible from a distance. Some vendors' lives are so linked to boats that they do not just work on the river; they also live there.

Shoppers arrive by land and water, signaling their wish to purchase by simply whistling or waving their hand. In the future, with more transportation moving to newly built roads, it could become rare to experience this historic boat-to-boat trading atmosphere on the Mekong.

It would be a mistake to define the spirit of Cambodia strictly by the soaring glory of Angkor Wat, the meandering Mekong River or the heady mix of ancient and modern architecture found in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Beyond these calling cards, Cambodia is—remarkably, after its dark and recent past—a country at peace with itself. What defines the spirit of Cambodia? Surely its people, who leave a lasting impression on visitors.

The story of Cambodia begins in 4000 BC with the first settlements. By the 13th century, it had grown into a major power as the Khmer kingdom, with territory in today’s Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar and Malay Peninsula. Angkor Wat, built in the then-capital of Angkor in the 12th century, stands today as the most impressive remnant of Khmer might. Its completion as a royal mausoleum punctuated a renaissance the likes of which Southeast Asia had never seen.

With the Siamese insurgence of the 15th century, the capital was moved south to Phnom Penh. Angkor was abandoned and left to decay until French archaeologists, with the support of the French protectorate that had moved in to oversee the country in 1863, began the long work of excavation and restoration.

The French ruled the region for 90 years until independence was gained in 1953. Entanglements with the North Vietnamese and the US in the 1960s and 1970s culminated in the emergence of the brutal dictator Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. The death of millions of Cambodians due to starvation, massacre and disease followed during one of the most notorious genocides the world has ever seen. Approximately 25 percent of the country’s total population met their end during the Khmer Rouge’s four-year reign of terror; any hint of opposition to Pol Pot’s government, including the pursuit of independent thought, led to execution. Vietnam soon intervened to depose Pol Pot and in 1979 the Khmer Rouge regime was soundly defeated, ushering in a new era of peace in Cambodia.

With its freedom to rediscover its rich heritage restored, today’s Cambodia is a vibrant tableau of green rice fields, rolling hills, French-influenced cities and the sinewy course of the Mekong. This is due in no small part to the remarkable resilience and spirit of the Cambodian people, known to be quick with a smile and a warm welcome.